Labdanum
A dark, leathery resin with a rich, amber-like warmth. Labdanum is one of the oldest perfumery materials, with a complex, slightly animalic character.
Fragrance Pyramid
Olfactive Character
Dark, warm, and richly resinous. Labdanum has a leathery, slightly animalic quality that sets it apart from lighter resins. It smells of sun-warmed rock and Mediterranean scrubland.
Origin & Harvest
Harvested from the leaves and branches of Cistus ladanifer, a rock rose native to the Mediterranean. Traditionally collected by combing the resin from goat hair after the animals grazed among the plants. Now typically extracted by solvent or steam distillation.
Key Molecules
Labdanolic acid provides the characteristic amber warmth. Ambrinol adds depth. Various diterpenes contribute the resinous, slightly smoky quality. The complexity of labdanum comes from hundreds of minor components.
Safety & Regulation
May cause sensitisation in some individuals due to its complex natural composition. Compliant with IFRA guidelines at standard use levels. Used extensively in fine fragrance without significant safety concerns.
In Perfumery
A cornerstone of amber and chypre compositions. Found in Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens and Shalimar by Guerlain. Often used as a substitute for ambergris. In KIDA KYO, labdanum adds dark, resinous depth.
History
One of the earliest aromatic materials, used in ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. Referenced in the Bible as 'myrrh' by some scholars. The traditional goat-combing method of collection was practiced for centuries in Crete and Cyprus.
