Oakmoss
A rich, earthy green with a damp, forest-floor quality. Oakmoss is the defining material of the chypre family and one of perfumery's most characterful ingredients.
Fragrance Pyramid
Olfactive Character
Earthy, damp, and deeply green. Oakmoss smells of rain-soaked forest floors and ancient trees. It has a leathery quality and a persistence that anchors compositions for hours.
Origin & Harvest
Extracted from Evernia prunastri, a lichen that grows on oak trees in central and southern Europe. Harvested primarily in the Balkans and Morocco. The absolute is obtained by solvent extraction of the dried lichen.
Key Molecules
Atranol and chloroatranol provide the characteristic mossy, earthy scent but are now heavily restricted. Modern oakmoss absolutes are 'atranol-free' versions. Orcinol derivatives and beta-orcinol contribute to the remaining character.
Safety & Regulation
Oakmoss is one of the most restricted natural materials in perfumery. IFRA has imposed strict limits on atranol and chloroatranol content. Only specially processed, atranol-free grades may be used in modern fragrance.
In Perfumery
The heart of the chypre family. Essential to Mitsouko by Guerlain and Chypre by Coty. Recent restrictions have forced reformulation of many classic fragrances. In KIDA KYO, we use compliant oakmoss to honour the chypre tradition.
History
Oakmoss became essential to perfumery with the creation of Chypre by Francois Coty in 1917. The material defined an entire fragrance family. IFRA restrictions beginning in 2008 created one of the most significant reformulation challenges in modern perfumery.
